The joint carries the wall. Get it right.
Careful removal of failed pointing and re-pointing with the correct lime mortar restores both the appearance and the breathability of stonework. Our pointing makes us stand out.
Pointing is the softest, most sacrificial element of a stone wall — and that is deliberate. It should erode slightly over time so that the stone itself is protected.
Cement pointing reverses this logic: it becomes the hardest element and moisture is forced through the stone instead, accelerating decay. We remove failed pointing carefully, prepare the joint, and repoint with a lime mortar matched to the wall's history and exposure.
- Hard ribbon-pointing sitting proud of the stone.
- Mortar washing out from joints, or open voids at the base of a wall.
- Salt bloom, damp staining or spalling stone faces.
- Failed previous repairs that were carried out in the wrong material.
- Joints raked back to a sound depth, not simply skimmed over.
- Mortar mixes calibrated to substrate, exposure and stone type.
- Sympathetic joint finishing that recedes behind the stone.
- Protected curing to prevent shrinkage cracks and washout.
Frequently asked.
How deep should pointing be cut out?+
As a working rule, at least twice the joint width — deeper where the existing mortar is failing or where earlier cement repairs need to come out completely.
Will the new pointing look modern?+
Not if it is done sympathetically. Finished flush or slightly recessed and washed back, lime pointing sits behind the stone and lets the wall read as it always did.
Can pointing be done in winter?+
Lime does not like frost. We plan works around temperature and weather, and protect completed sections carefully during curing.